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Beneath the increasingly frayed soles of my favorite hiking boots, an ancient stone road, jumbled and ragged with age, climbs unevenly toward the top of a mountain. Much earlier today and far, far below, I stood in the paved stone plaza of Ponte de Lima, my feet obscured by a feathery, post-dawn vapor covering the ground. Around me, lone walkers with tall staffs and small groups laden with heavy backpacks were gathered, each with his own plans for the mountain. Many were clearly religious pilgrims, eager to set off on the next leg of the Caminho de Santiago Portuguese Way, a steep section of a route that leads from here toward the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Spain. José Augusto, co-owner of Portugal Green Walks, was there to meet me, and we set off with the singular pleasure that surely fills the heart of every explorer.
